Sleepless in American Samoa

Backyard for Mom & Dad's house is our private beach-Pu'afotu Beach
in Lauli'i, American Samoa. Went to bed & woke up to this breathtaking view. 

Our short trip to Pago, Pago was unimaginable; we had so much fun hence the busy moments of our time we took out from seeing friends and families, to run errands and doing Mom's feau's (chores). We returned to Wisconsin homesick and daydreaming about the times we woke up to no worries or a rush, as this was the norm in my schedule in the Midwest. It seems like as soon as that Hawaiian Airline Flight 465 arrived in Tutuila (American Samoa), everything is on pause. What happens out in the world is now in the back burner, and what's before us is peace, relaxation,family, lots of time, simplicity and the beach everywhere you turn. That is the beauty of home, the beauty of American Samoa that I love most!

My fave-Plumeria pic taken in Nanakuli 

After several snow delays in Minnesota and Seattle, we made it to Hawaii close to midnight. We were welcomed by family and the unstoppable laughter helped to relieve the delayed acclimation to the humidity. We had time to relax and prep for our connecting flight to American Samoa; also had time to shop around for macadamia nuts as it is a gem for loved ones to receive us with goodies. The restless connecting eagles from Wisconsin really had us jet lagged, including the time difference, yet, out of 5 planes and 11 hours on air, we were overwhelmed, and beyond excited to see our final destination.

We boarded from Gate 24 in Honolulu International Airport in Oahu. The flight was not full, so most passengers waited until the flight took off to change seats around. In between counting hours to our final destination, we were comforted by polite flight attendants and the famous tunes of Israel Kamakawiwoole, Keali'i Reichel and Mama Genoa Keawe. My phone was unable to upload a go-go in flight package to browse the internet while on flight, but prior to wheels up,  I was able to update a few statuses and send out last minute reminders before sealing my phone for a roaming status in American Samoa. And FYI-all services from Sprint, T-Mobile, Cingular, Verizon Wireless, Boost Mobile, Mobi, Virgin Mobile, AT & T, etc., currently used in the United States, don't function past the Hawaiian Islands. Most people switch sim cards to Bluesky or ASTCA phone services when they land in Pago.

Something that always catches my attention while on that Flight 465 or 466 is the flight attendant that translates airline instructions to the Samoan passengers. Upon updating my Facebook status about the politeness, poise and articulation in her voice and the way she speaks, I was proud of the way this shows complacency in the Samoan language. The clarity in her voice reminds me how unique my Samoan language is, that although it may seem easy for the world to understand; it is a language that has its own roots and levels from the spoken, written, slang and formal-relatively the same as the Hawaiian language in spoken, written and the slang in Pidgin. For example: "You like me lick you?" Translation: Do you want spanking? Do you want to get beat up? That's Hawaiian Pidgin.

Receiving Area (Immigration & Customs Area) at Pago, Pago International Airport

We landed smoothly in Pago, Pago International Airport at approximately 9:30 pm. The whole flight home was actually smooth compared to a multitude of other January flights where airplanes made turnarounds. January, in the Samoan Islands, is known for hurricanes, trough monsoons and its stormy season. There were forecasted vines about a Cyclone Victor in the South Pacific while we were on air to get home, but it veered away from our final destination a few hours before we departed from Chicago. As scary as it seems, the flights are always successfully transporting locals back and forth in between Honolulu and Pago, Pago. The airport in Pago, Pago is a safe landing zone, and while I sometimes battle the phobia of being in an airplane, I always think of the worst somewhere else than where I am presently sitting-like the Lukla Airport in Nepal where the wheels up zone is right at a cliff that is leveled below hell if you miss jetting off in air or the Port au Prince Toussaint Couverture International Airport where passengers actually knock each other out without saying soddy!
The Hawaiian Airline ramp workers greeted Talofa and Welcome Home as we deplaned into the Receiving Area. We passed the departing gate where passengers for Flight 466 were seated and awaiting clearance from the ticketing agencies to board. That stomached feeling of "Thank God I'm not them" is the same feeling I chuckled to, everytime I pass that entrance when people, who are leaving American Samoa are seated. Im always depressed in that waiting area.

The receiving area for customs and immigration is always the longest wait or hurry up and wait process. We deplaned quickly out of the airplane to stand in line 10-20 minutes to get our passports stamped. The process took long, but we were comforted by the lovely smiles and the K-9 customs dog that sniffed around my Hawaiian Springs artesian bottle of water and the airline pretzels crumbled up in my purse I had to point out to the curious workers. The humidity greeted us too. We rushed off to the immigration area and waited in line for a good while. And while we stood there fanning our immigration forms and passports, we were pouring sweat everywhere. The ceiling fans in the area steamed the area with humid air, and despite the discomfort,we made it past with a smiling immigration worker who welcomed us back.

Like every flight nights, the airport was jam packed. When I got settled at home, I wrote a long status on Facebook (Molioleava Books Facebook Page ) about my arrival and home:

"When you wake up in American Samoa knowing that this is where it all began. Our little home in Lauli'i, where Mom and Dad molded our future from the humbling beginnings with fried herring smothered in wesson oil and eggplant. Yummy! It is so great to be home, and knowing that with all of us home, our house is so loud-soon, we'll be clowning on each other and then get an earful. This is the joy of returning home with your siblings to visit Mom and Dad. And I just can't seem to filter the sullen feelings when we have to part ways and leave our home again, it'll be quiet and gloomy to hearing a needle fall...Well it's too early to think of leaving, it's time to make memories and paint my siblings' faces with Mom's burnt frying pan. 

I woke up to the beach view out back, the sound of waves and the eerie breeze from Namumeaavaga (Molioleava-harbor light upstairs). This is the pleasant view that ships and boats row on by and admire a lot. It always turns necks when purse seiners and cruise ships sees us waving right at bay, behind our secret beach in Lauli'i-the Puafotu Beach behind Mom and Dad's house. The airport was pretty busy last night. It sure does remind me a lot about those nights we'd just throw on our finest clothes and shoes to go hang out at the Pago, Pago International Airport. Then we see people flying in with the grandest style and the new shoes..boy, those were the nights we enjoyed making people think we were actually leaving the island with our sikaili(styles). Well, I didn't come out looking like I was flashing a grand statement, I love my flip flops too much and the love and aroma of just stepping out of the plane to feel the love of this heat is what I waited all along for. It is very good to be home. 

As for any plans for today-Well, I was planning on sneaking out to Fagatogo to get some pancakes at 5AM, before everyone wakes up, but Lo & behold; these hyenas are peeking in through the louvers-Mom's dogs. I left home when they were just born, and now they grilling at me like I'm some foreigner. So I'll wait. I daydreamed of the pancakes in Fagatogo while basking in the Hawaiian sun yesterday, and here I am making noise everywhere while everyone's still asleep.I stared out the back of our house to find any traces of my old graffiti writings or any trace of my childhood, but it still looks to me, that Mom has not cease with her habits of maintaining home, the way it has always been all our lives. Her plants are growing alphabets around these rainbow lumbers welcoming us home. She has re-painted our home to welcome us and it's funny that the names drawn onto the cemented floors are still in tact, but a little bit of greenish moss growing around the names.You'd laugh if you see what I wrote when I was 8 years old:we fathomed English names so much and for my adoration, there is "DARLYNN" drawn on nearly every step by our house. Our shack out back is still there, our umu (cooking hut) is still standing after enduring so much since Hurricane Ofa & Valerie. I hear the pigs out back and the morning roosters. It was a little awkward when it was only 2AM and I heard a rooster out back, but that only happens when someone returns. Mom says it is like that when people return home-people who are unfamiliar with it always claim there are spirits around, but it doesn't bother us much. When I sit out back on moonlit nights, it is such a pleasant feeling, you can just fall asleep believing that your floating on the crashing waves out back. Since I left in 2000, I only come home once every year. This past year feels like it has been a while, but it may have been the fact that Wisconsin is very far from motherland. I am very thankful to be here and reuniting with my loved ones. If I see you around, don't be a stranger, I'll say hi hi hi, have a good day!!! If you need a signature for your book, you're more than welcome to beep beep on by, and I'll run upstairs to sign it. No problem. I hope it'll be low tide today, cause a fishing frago is in effect.Manuia lou aso (Have a good day) from me here in Puafotu Beach. HUGS." 

Morning sunrise in Lauli'i, American Samoa

One of the captured scenes during my visit home are the morning and evening sun views. Because of the time difference, I only slept probably for 2 hours before waking up to watch the kids make their way to school as the sun made its way out. The pleasant view in the morning and the coolness of morning dew is a gem, but once the sun is fully out, be prepared to bask in an oven at full blast. It did not stop us from swimming and doing our normal chores back home. The feeling of being home was overwhelming. You wave at aunts and uncles nearby, even wave at the creative car beeping overheard from the road. American Samoa is known for its pleasant views and National Park preserved lands, and indigenous habitats. In my village in Lauli'i, National Park preserves the naval artifacts in Breaker's Point from World War II and the vast wetlands near this preserved monument.

That house in between those two mountains is my home in Lauli'i, American Samoa.
The name of that private beach in our forefront is Pu'afotu Beach.

Visiting families in Vatia 

When I'm not busy with errands and things to do in town during my trip, I took the time to sit in our backyard to write. I used to drag a mat over to a shaded area and fell asleep to the sound of waves out back. This simplicity and view out back of our home in Lauli'i is a time share package to the world. But for me, I feel blessed not only because I grew up here, but there is still value in my upbringing that is still present in Pu'afotu that I will forever cherish no matter where I am now. 

Sundays in American Samoa

Sundays at home, is a view that is very rare, different but unique. Unlike other countries in the world, the Samoan islands are more preserving with Sundays than any normal day. For both islands, they are grounded under a belief of: Samoa, muamua le Atua (Samoa, put God first) & Fa'avae i le Atua Samoa God (Samoa is founded on God); and vested in their respective practices and beliefs, everything is summoned under respect for God and His Sabbath Day, which is Sunday. There is hardly any cars roaming on the road, there's no stores open, town areas are empty, no businesses running or aiga/transit buses roaming, no sports, no games, no swimming; and very peaceful and quiet-everyone respects the Sabbath day. That smoke you see in the picture is a norm for Sunday mornings in the islands. From 4AM to 7AM, there is smoke coming from outdoor cooking huts; young men usually cook around that time before church begins.

Molioleava-Harbor Light 

In light of my books and published work, I named my producing engine, Molioleava Books after that mountain on the Eastern side of American Samoa. Locally, it is called Molioleava, as the crater holds an irradiating landmark for the territory, a light that harbors many ships from far into the inner wharf of American Samoa. That crater is highly elevated that it picks up a high signal for telecommunication services, cable, television and radio stations in the territory. My house is on the opposite end of the mountain and the land, which belongs to my family in Lauli'i is called Namumeaavaga. There's several antennas seated up in Molioleava today as you see in the picture, but the beauty not captured in this picture is why my heart clings dearly to that crater. Surrounded by antennas most important to the island of American Samoa are my forefathers and elders buried in Namumeaavaga and when you hike up the crater, it looks like a crown of antennas guarding tombstones of our elders and forefathers buried up there.

Molioleava-This is the harbor light seated on Namuameaavaga
in Lauli'i, American Samoa 

Swimming & Rugby 

Aside from volleyball in the evenings, swimming and rugby are the faves in the island. We were devoted swimmers since our day one, from noon to the rippled evening tides.  My daughter was like a coral reef throughout the days home. We didn't get to fish but a few stumbles on the coral reefs to find  a gold (clams & sea urchins), like a regular "Mata Ai"(seafood edible-eater) got us a little bit of luck before it was high tide. What I noticed about the coast and our area is how our tall seawall was getting shorter and shorter. Then I remembered the climate changes and the many storms throughout the years that resurfaced many things in our surroundings back home.

View of inner wharf & town area from Molioleava 

Sightseeing in American Samoa is a natural wonder for an area well-preserved with lush of natural beauty and preserving communal lands. Families own their own treasured lands, and unlike other countries; neighborly villages are only entitled to clusters of families and extended families. Like my village of Lauli'i, there are clusters of different families from Peleafei, Mulitauaopele, Pele, Salanoa, Aulava and Vaimaona. Tafuna, an area mostly filtered with different families and people is known to be more privatized for anyone who purchases or leases a land.

Outdoor cooking huts back home-Breadfruits & taros are baked under heated rocks

Besides the beaches, landmark views and beautiful sights of American Samoa; food is one of the best things about being home. There's restaurants and different menus to choose from in the islands, but a home spread is always the best. My favorite is the breadfruit, taros and luau (green leafs baked with coconut milk). You can't ever go wrong with this.

Poke-Raw Fish
DELISH! 

I posted an update from home in Molioleava Books Facebook Page:
"Some breadfruit, taro & fresh coconut milk straight from the cooking hut makes my day every day. People take pictures by McDonalds in Fagatogo, Equator's in Tafuna, & Carls Jr @ Laufou while I am taking my instagram moments by my Dad's charred cooking hut with all the organic love microwaved by the heated rocks underground- that costs nearly an arm in US and abroad. The beauty of our farms and homebred foods is that they are so costly in the world, but free here. Just clean up the bananas, taros and breadfruits out back.. Individuals and franchises are so fascinated by this lifestyle that it's so cloned and adopted for a lifestyle. But you see, this is home that we love, what we have is right in our backyards. Feeling blessed knowing that I was born and raised right here. I love you American Samoa. I love you too ulu (breadfruit), taro, pe'epe'e (coconut milk),and oka (raw fish).. Must try: That restaurant in Utulei by the Scanlan Gas Station with BBQ and fresh oka to go. Ono grandeur!"

Warriors wear skirts 

It is said the strongest warriors are from Scotland and Samoa. Why? Because men wear skirts. In the Samoan islands, they're not skirts, they're called ie lava lava, ie faitaga or sarongs. These materials are worn respectively for cultured and respected occasions like family events and functions as well as church on Sunday. The color "white" is an assembled or an elite chosen color most churches wear on Sunday in Samoa. As a Methodist, our dress code is always a white puletasi for females (a blouse and skirt dress) or white safari (shirt & skirt) for males. 

View from Molioleava to the far end of the ocean where Lady Naomi
enters & exits from Apia to Pago, Pago 

You'll never see clouds or stars that low from the horizon until you visit American Samoa. This breathtaking view was taken from Namumeaavaga (Molioleava) while hiking up to visit my relatives. 

My daughter is wearing my school uniform from
back in the days for Lauli'i Elementary.

Mom had saved this uniform from my elementary years and it fitted well on my daughter when we arrived.  Cyncere experienced a whole different curriculum and enjoyed it. I started off in Lauli'i Elementary from ECE to 3rd grade off and on, then went to Marist St. Francis and Fa'asao High School. From my daughter's experience, she told me that the children were so nice to her. They asked her, "Fia kaalo tip top?" (Want to play tip top?) And she learned, 1)Inky Inky Monkey, keli pua kali 2)Ke malaki, a panipopo, a bye bye!! 3)Aki (jacks using perfectly smooth-rounded rocks). Throughout the years since she was born, she was very curious about my life and upbringing while growing up in American Samoa. I did mention to her how it was, from getting a metric ruler hit on the palm for a mistake on a homework, and the scrumptious pani (bun) and milk upbringing in a life that believe in corporal punishment for students. She loved her experience in Lauli'i Elementary and my fa'afetai and thank you to the lovely staff of Lauli'i Elementary for giving my daughter a homebred experience that she'll remember eternally. 

Home is where the heart is. 

Although we're far from home, I'll always remember where I began. In a humble upbringing, I'll always hold true to where all of what I am now came from. Not a lot of people reflect to the beginning and how life was. Something very simple may be different, but it is costly and extinct in someone else's life. I feel blessed and lucky for my own upbringing, for my life and where I am from. We do a lot of traveling around the world since we left, and invested a lot in getaways, but a lot of what we choose in travel packages is what's right in our backyard. The food chain in other countries is leaning towards the healthy side like organics and natural resources. The produce aisles in grocery stores is becoming more expensive, but it is free back home. This is what I solely value more about where I am from. 

Airport Parking 

 This was one of the signs I saw while in American Samoa. Another interesting sign I saw in town was: "A leiloa le mea e tuu ai le lapisi tuu i lou ----!" I remember when parking spaces were free, then it increased to a $1, $2..and now it's $3. It changes every time I travel home, and after riding around to see the airport unloading/loading zone filled with parked cars, I came around to discover the new fee to park. The security has to literally come out with his ticket booklet and pen to hint to the drivers sitting under the airport guesthouse, to move their cars out of the airport drop off zone. Drivers would then ride around and come back to park at the drop off zone, again. The airport carts by the conveyor belt in the airport terminal has increased to $4 now; it was also free before. In an annual count for both venues, I think it would be really nice for these two venues to work a cycle in putting air condition in the Receiving Area for Immigration and Customs, so it can balance out on both Arrival and Departure areas to appeal the same way.

Starkist Tuna-Cannery in Satala, American Samoa 

The big tuna cannery operates mainly in the islands and has played a huge employment role for our local residents in raking in sources of income and numbers for the territory. There is a possibility for downsizing, and vines towards the licensing problems for the boats forbidden to fish until a fee of $17 million is paid by the company. My mother retired here after 30 years of providing and raising 11 children. Families and individuals made ends meet through working here, now that advantage is vanishing slowly like the other cannery that recently closed which closed many opportunities for local residents. American Samoa is a great location for the tuna cans to be manufactured from, as it is surrounded by water and its convenient location helps purse seiner boats. My continuous prayers for everyone working in Starkist and Starkist. 

My Peace & Zen
My Canvas View while Listening to Tiama'a 

In the evenings, after hearing the smooth grooves from Real Diehl and the beautiful sounds & Morning Show from 93KHJ (John & Sia), this canvas view and Tiama'a on 2AP is all that's left. All these breathtaking views doesn't require photo shop, or an adobe plug, they're all filtered in naturally with the mild breeze, sound of crickets, cannery buses passing by and the echoes from the Bingo Hall in the village. It's depressing just looking at it, while gazing out at the snow thawing on my law in Wisconsin. We left home satisfied and happy. We spent time with family, we did our chores, we ate some Fagatogo market pancakes, even devoured some german buns from Amy's. Now we're home, and trying to adjust time and weather changes around; it's not easy but we'll get used to it as always. From all that we enjoyed, I miss my parents and families the most. 

Happy 70th birthday Dad!

Although this was not a vacation, we enjoyed our short time home with families and friends. Family time is more important to me than anything, and waking up to see my parents each day is everything I could ask God for each day. I got to spend time with Mom and Dad, even had time to chat and catch up before celebrating Dad's 70th birthday. He has battled through the years with so much, but God pulled through for Him everyday. During my trip, I was able to visit him at his appointments, even stopped by Lyndon B. Johnson Medical Center to say hi to him and his friends as well as his nurses. Im so thankful for their hardwork and perseverance while serving patients day in and out. My continuous prayers for LBJ and the crisis it's undergoing at this time. It's not easy, but my continuous and yearning prayers for all patients: from elders to younger children who are in need of medical, intensive and palliative support and care each day. I love you all. #PrayersIVLBJ 

I dropped off my novels to SSAB-Pago in Tafuna
for local readers who have no access to Amazon  

During the last few days in Pago, Pago, I was able to drop off copies of my books, Lovefolds of Our Upbringing- to the SSAB-Pago Samoa Stationery & Books Store in Tafuna. Thanks to Sina & staff for your support and acceptance. We took a picture together before carrying on with my errands for my parents, and followed their links on Facebook. You'll see more of their updates on here SSAB-Pago , even enjoyed seeing some of my favorite Samoan authors on catalogs and displays while visiting SSAB-Pago. Fa'afetai tele lava, Thank you so much!  

Latest Rumors & Slangs 

Well, while home, I keep hearing kids saying, "E ese le kalo, ese le pakeka," (Potato is different from a taro), which has an unusual meaning that can easily curve a micro aggression assumption, but it's a slang that kids toss around in sarcasm. It means those who are from off island eats potatoes, and a Samoan eats  taros. The comparison between a taro and a potato is in comparison for a traveler and a Samoan breed or someone brought up in the islands. When it comes to an altercation when a visitor wants to throw a temper tantrum, a kid from Samoa would say, "Ese le kalo, ese le pakeka sole!" -a potato is nothing compared to a taro.. dejavue! 

Another slang is Poki Loa! The hyped generation today makes you feel old or out of place when returning home, but it's always nice to hear it and giggle about your non-belonging self when you don't know what it means. 

Rumors in American Samoa may seem new to a traveler, but it's becoming a practice that everyone easily exclaim with another slang, "Like leva ia." -like long time!! Out of marriage affairs is a big thing in AS. You're supposedly the talk of the town or the popular thing if you're having an affair with someone else's husband or wife. It outgrows the keen, the righteous, the successors, the integrity...but in reality, the behavior may flaunt well as cuteness, or like a soap opera, but it's adultery-which means, it's wrong, bad and all of the below unacceptable. What makes affairs more prominent or heavily headlined among conversations is where it is commonly practiced. Before, it was shushed easily or dusted under rug, but now, a lot of people are saying, that everyone knows, and no one cares. People are coming out more openly in public, and yes, it is common in high floors or high leadership positions within the territory. Should I be worried or threatened? I am sure God has me, but I feel for the wife who walks by her husband and his mistress having lunch in town and does not say much. I think we can tolerate that as women to speak up or milk the cow in the wrong dry. 

Other rumors are the pay hikes for representatives. As I heard, the pay hike may only be 20 cents annually, I'm not sure, but for the first time in my life I am proud of the citizens and local residents for formulating an interest group or a body to advocate and voice opinions for what is right. I like that idea, and I pray it remains that way. I also value the idea of putting pay hikes behind, and working to balance out where there is a lack in funding first before suggesting any pay raise. 

I was curious and began asking around for candidates and who's going to be running for Governor and Lieutenant Governor this next term. I am beyond excited and interested to know who I will be voting for, because a lot of my favorite role models ran last year. My prayers for our government and our territory of American Samoa. There is hope for change. A lot of hopes and prayers are answered, but there is also this vision, that even a humble and a suited leader changes with power and authority. There is also this belief, that while some work to help people, there is always one who will say one thing but will work to help His own people. I like to observe and see where it goes, but my prayers remains for my home sweet home. 

I love you American Samoa! 

My trip ended with a few Machiatto stops in Chicago and then our last haul to my temporary abode here in Tomah, Wisconsin. We missed home as soon as we saw the snow thawing on our front door step. Despite the withdrawals and nostalgic moments, I got right back into business with writing and returning back to work. It was all fun while it lasted, but it's crunch time until I can release "Pintail Foundation."

Much Alofa to all of you & God bless!

Lynn